Salut from Haute-Savoie! Meet & Greet Tomme de Savoie
The great country of France is well-renowned for creating some of the most phenomenal cheeses on the face of the planet. Each region boasts an impressive roster of classics, with possibly the best cheeses coming from the eastern Alpine region nestled in the crook of Switzerland. Here in the heart of the French Alps lies the origins of titans such as Beaufort, Reblochon, and Abondance. One outstanding cheese that I have long since fallen in love with is Tomme de Savoie. Delightful and deceptive in its simplicity, this raw cow cheese is now a staple in many households across the land. Gray and fuzzy on the outside, the interior is supple and feels like a warm savory hug. Flavors of browned buttery marrow and roasted mushrooms sing throughout and seduce the mind and spirit. In recent months, I’ve been very lucky to become more familiar with it as it is aged right in the caves that I work in Haute-Savoie at Schmidhauser Affineurs.
Tomme de Savoie in 3 Stages:
Freshly made and days old, wildly fuzzy and growing mold, final perfected form
Cyrill Goi
Rotating Tomme de Savoie
Originally from Switzerland, the family relocated to the French Alps in 1961. Since then, they’ve harkened on revitalizing the traditions of the area inspired to push for the best potential in each cheese. They eventually decided to construct their own custom cheese caves in a sweet, sleepy alpine town called Alex. Cheese caves? Yeah, they exist and how blessed we all are for them! Whether an actual cavern deep in the mountainside or modern man-made cellars, caves are critical to the development of artisanal cheeses. The damp, humid environment provides the right conditions to foster bacterial and mold growth essential for the flavor and texture evolutions. Temperatures are regulated and hygiene and sanitation remain vital parts of our daily routines. The caves really serve as a specialized ecosystem and the foundation of what can make or break a cheese. Here is where real labors of passion and dedication from our fierce team of affineurs are tangible. Tomme de Savoie is revered here and many areas of the caves are dedicated to its care and cultivation.
Grégory Mermillod-Blardet
Poses with his speciality Tomme de Savoie
Affinage is a fine balance of science and artistry. It requires great physical strength, mental agility, acute sensory abilities, and of course, a great love of cheese. Affineurs (or cave dwellers/cave angels) are responsible for making sure each cheese is cared for appropriately as we must also bridge the gap to satisfy both the cheesemaker and the customer. It can take weeks or months for a cheese to be ready for consumption. Tomme de Savoie is no exception, requiring daily attention and maintenance. Our affineurs must rotate cheeses, control mold growth, understand terroir, and prevent possible cross-contamination. The relationship between the cheese and the affineur is a delicate dance and highly symbiotic.
Cave Crew
Some of the finest men I know! Thank you for the daily inspiration!
It is one thing to admire something from afar, but my time here in France has genuinely deepened my love and appreciation for this cheese. From the depths of the caves to the bustling cities, the presence of Tomme de Savoie echoes everywhere. How proud we are to watch this go from creation to consumption in just a matter of seven weeks. If you ever have the chance, please treat yourself to this treasure.
